Monday, December 24, 2007
Large Debris Deflector Removal.
Airbox Resonator Removal
Tools: Flat-head Screwdriver or 10mm socket with extension Time Required: About 45 Seconds :) Procedure: 1) Open the hood. 2) Locate Airbox. Towards the driver's side fender you'll see a small box attached to it. That's the
resonator. We're taking that guy OFF! 3) Using a screwdriver or socket, loosen the 2 screws on the airbox that are closest to this Resonator. Three
turns ought to do it. 4) Pull up on the airbox. 5) Pry the resonator away from the airbox. 6) The lower part will still be connected. Pull the lower part of the resonator firmly away from the airbox
until it pops out. 7) Observe the new air entrance point! 8) Tighten the screws you loosened. 9) Start the car and rev it. Hear the difference! 10) Close everything up. * Note: For North American Foci, this applies only to 8v 2.0L SPI and 16v 2.0L Zetec-E engines. This excludes the 16v 2.3L Duratec (PZEV)
Modifying a Mustang Throttle Body for SPI use
Unknown
Tools Needed:
Procedure:
Not all mustang throttles are created equal!! You will need a throttle from a 96' and up Mustang with a 4.6 L engine. This throttle is also available on Crown Victoria's, Cougars and the Grand Marquis with the 4.6L engine. There may be more fitments but I don't know them. From what I've experienced, their are different versions of this throttle available. Some have passages for the IAC air already dilled into the bore and the base of the throttles and some don't. Also, some have a hole in the throttle plate and some don't. The throttle of choice for this mod would be one that has the IAC holes already in it but doesn't have the hole in the throttle plate. All the other throttles will do just fine but will require you to do more work.
Part 1: Modifying the linkage
1) You must take the throttle plate out by undoing the two screws in the throttle plate. Open the throttle and pull the plate out from the top of the throttle body. With the plate removed, you can now pull the linkage/throttle rod out. There is no need to take the TPS off just yet. There is a tab that must now be either bent flat or cut-off so you can put the linkage in a vise. There is a pic of the tab cut-off below.
2) Put the linkage in a vise as shown in the picture above and grind away the two plastic bumps with a cut-off wheel. Grind till they are now flush with the metal. You must cut the metal part of the linkage that is between the two red lines in the pic below. You have to use really small cut-off wheels in a Dremel or Roto-Zip to do this. The cut must be parallel to the red lines. Be careful not to cut the throttle bar or the plastic part of the linkage below.
3) Now you can stick a flat-blade screwdriver in between the plastic and the metal and slowly pry the two apart. Now that you have the plastic part off, you must grind away the raised square part of the linkage. You must not grind away the two little round stubs sticking up, just the raised square section were you cut the metal in step 3. This way when the plastic is relocated on the metal part of the linkage it will sit flush. While you have the piece out, make the throttle cable hole bigger by using a 9/32nds drill bit.
4) Those two holes in the metal part of the linkage must be re-drilled in a different position. To do this, place tape on the two holes and then poke holes through the tape so you can see through the holes. Try not to move the tape when poking the holes through so that the hole positions remain accurate.
5) As a guide, the hole in the plastic for the accelerator cable should be located on top of the letter "f" in the code that is stamped into the metal. The "f" should be towards the top of the hole. Place the plastic on top of the metal and line up the f, then using that letter as a point of rotation, rotate the plastic till the curve in the plastic lines up with the edge of the rusty center tab and is almost at the edge of one of the old holes (example shown in the fourth pic below). This doesn't have to be too exact... just close enough. Once you get the two pieces lined up. Then using a pencil, trace a line on the metal around the two round stubs. Now pull the tape off and place it over the new traced holes. Put the plastic over the piece and check everything once again before you drill. If it looks good, center punch the holes and drill them out with a 7/32nds drill bit. While you have the linkage in the vise you can cut off the rest of the metal tab that is not going to be used as shown in the third pic below..
6) As shown in the last picture above, you must drill a 11/64 hole in the plastic were it's circled. Since there is a ramp there it's hard to drill because the drill just walks. You must grind some of the ramp away and make it flat. After you drill the hole, clamp the two pieces together in the vise and spot the hole in the metal using the plastic as a guide. Then take the plastic piece off and drill the hole you spotted all the way through the metal. Now bolt the two pieces together with the 8/32 screw and nut provided. While it's bolted together, cut off the excess length of screw with the cut off wheel.
7) Now take it apart again. Clean both surfaces and apply epoxy or some sort of super glue to them. Follow the instructions supplied with the glue you are using and put the two pieces back together when the time is right. Then put a drop of red loctite on the end of the screw and bolt it back together one last time. You are now done modifying the linkage!
Part 2: Modifying the throttle housing
8) Next, you must drill a 3/8 hole a 1/2" deep from the bottom of the throttle body. As I stated in the beginning of this how-to, some have a hole in the bottom and some don't. If you don't have a hole, then just use the edges of the throttle body as a guide for the 3/8 drill bit. If you do, then just make the hole bigger. Before you start drilling, measure 1/2 inch from the edge (not the tip) of the drill and put tape on it or draw a line with a marker. Then drill the hole in the throttle till the tape or the line lines up with the bottom of the throttle. Put the throttle on the adapter and see if it sits flush with the adapter. If it doesn't then take it off and drill a little more.
9) Next you must use a 5/16 bit to drill the previous hole deeper. Using the tape method again, hold the bit up to the side of the throttle and eyeball it so you have about an 1/8 of an inch of material left before you drill through and come out the other side of the throttle. Drill the hole and make sure you don't poke a hole through the other side!
9) If your throttle has an IAC hole already in it then remove the plug in the throttle with a 1/4 in Allen key. Cut the tip of the brass plug off at the threads and put it back in with red Loctite. Don't screw it in very far otherwise it will protrude past the IAC hole you just made and block some of it off. Skip to step 13).
11) If you have no IAC holes in your throttle then you will have to take the TPS sensor off. It is a PITA because they used some sort of thread locker on the threads You can try to take them off but you have to be very careful because the screws strip easily. If you have trouble, you can place a block of wood on top of the throttle and clamp it to a table or workbench with a c-clamp. Now that the throttle is secure...you can put some muscle into it and get those screws and the sensor out.
12) With the TPS removed you can now begin drilling and tapping some air passages. Center one of the pipe plugs on the round part of the throttle as shown below and draw a circle around it. Center punch or mark the middle of the circle. Drill a pilot hole with a 5/16 drill. Then drill it with a 7/16 drill all the way through into the throttle bore as shown in the fourth and fifth pics below. You must then drill out the hole that's shown in the sixth pic with the 7/16 drill as well. Using a 1/4 npt tap, tap both the holes. Put the black plug in the hole by the TPS sensor and the longer grey/silver plug in the other hole. Make sure to use red Loctite on the plugs. There is no need to over tighten these plugs, the Loctite will hold them in place forever.
13) Last but not least, if your brass throttle plate has a whole in it then you must close that hole. The best way would be to "braze" it shut. Not many people have that equipment, so I use solder. It will never come out and will not melt unless your car catches on fire. You cannot use a cheap soldering iron because it will not heat the plate up enough to make the solder stick. A propane torch will get the job done.
14) Before you start soldering, you want to scuff up the inside of the hole so it sticks really good. I use small round files or screwdriver tips to scratch up the inside of the hole in the plate. Once the hole is scuffed up, turn on the torch, heat up the plate and then apply solder till the hole is filled. Once the plate is cooled you can then file the solder flat on the plate and sandpaper and polish it if you want to make it pretty.
15) Install the modified TB
Camshafts - Removal/Installation
Give yourself at least 2 hours, and take your time
Tools Needed:
Procedure:
Note:
Be prepared to replace the cam bolts with something more durable. The specs are:
Removal
1. Remove the intake pipe.
2. Detach the accelerator cable and the speed control cable (if equipped).
3. Remove valve cover and the timing belt. For additional information, refer to Adjustable Cam Gear Installation Instructions
4. Remove the camshaft timing pulleys.
5. Note: Loosening sequence.
Unscrew the bolts of the camshaft bearing caps evenly in several stages two turns at a time.
A. Remove the oil seals.
B. Remove the camshafts.
Installation
1. Note: Identification numbers are provided on the outer face of the camshaft bearing caps.
Apply sealant to camshaft bearing cap numbers 0 and 5 in the areas shown.
2. Turn the crankshaft to approximately 60 degrees before TDC on cylinder number 1.
3. Note: Lay the camshaft in place so that none of the cams is at full lift.
Lubricate the camshaft and camshaft bearing caps with engine oil.
4. Note: Screw in the camshaft bearing cap bolts evenly, in the sequence shown, a half turn at a time and tighten them in two stages.
Tighten the bolts of the camshaft bearing caps.
A. Stage 1: 89 in/lb
B. Stage 2: 14 ft/lb
5. Install the camshaft oil seals.
A. Lubricate the camshaft and oil seal lip with engine oil.
B. Install a new oil seal.
Note: Do not tighten the bolts. The camshaft timing pulleys must be able to turn freely on the camshafts. Install the camshaft timing pulleys.
6. Install the timing belt. For additional information, refer to Adjustable Cam Gear Installation Instructions
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Attach the accelerator cable and the speed control cable (if equipped).
9. Install the intake pipe.
10. Note: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.
Acell Coil upgrade for the SPI motor.
30 minutes
Tools Needed:
Procedure:
Props: Waterboy and FlaFocus (on focaljet) for pioneering, tesing, and writing about this mod.Parts Needed:
Coil removal.
#1 remove airbox assembly, upper and lower.
#2 disconnect MAF plug from MAF.
#3 dicsonnect plug from coil pack, push in on the wire clip.
#4 remove plus wires from plugs.
#5 remove (3) 8mm bolts from coil bracket, one is under the coil, that is why you remove the airbox.
#6 remove the (4) 7mm bolts holding the coil on to the bracket, remember the position for later refrence.
Coil assembly, and install
#1 Take the 4. 50mm bolt and install the 4. 5mm lock washers and slide in to new coil.
#2 install (2) 5mm flat washers per bolt.
#3 install (1) 1/2 spacer per bolt.
#4 install (1) 5mm flat washer per bolt
#5 align the new coil in to the same position as the old one was, and tighten all 4 bolts.
#6 Looking at the old coil with the wires still on it, install the new wires to the coil so they are like the stock coil, then connect the plug wires to the spark plugs.
#7 Reconnect MAF wires to MAF
#8 Install Airbox assembly.
Now take her out for a ride and notice the difference.
Cat-Back Exhaust System Installation
1-2 hours
Tools Needed:
Procedure:
Stock system removal:1) Set parking brake, and put car in neutral or park
2) Raise and support rear of car, use jackstands to hold car up safely.
3) Put your protective eyewear on, and crawl under the car.
4) Soak all 5 rubber hangers. There's one near the tailpipe, one up and under the rear suspension, one attached to the middle muffler (look up under the muffler, it's there), and two near the flexpipe flange up toward the engine.
5)Take your reciprocating saw, and cut the exhaust somewhere close to the rear suspension, between the middle muffler and suspension preferably
6)Using the screwdriver to pry with, carefully remove the rear resonator and tailpipe. Be careful when prying with the scewedriver, you can injure yourself. do not rip or damage the rubber hangers, they will be used to hang the aftermarket exhaust system later on.
7)You may wish to lower the rear of the car and raise the front for the following steps.
8)Crawl up near the flex pipe flange, and cut the bolts off with the dremel cutoff wheel. This could take some time, patience, and you may break or wear down as many as 4 or 5 cutoff discs per bolt. Your best bet is to cut across the bolt first, turning it into a "stump" and then cutting perpendicular to the flange, to cut the whole nut and bolt in half. This will get the bolt and nut off without any problems. If the nut doesn't split and fall off, then use the screwdriver in the groove you made to help pry the nut off. If that doesn't work, keep grinding on it with the dremel. See diagram:
9) Once removed, separate the stock exhaust from the flex pipe, and pull the remaining parts from the rubber hangers, and pull the whole exhaust system out.
10) Carefully remove the steel flange gasket from the stock system.
Aftermarket system replacement (used magnaflow as an example:)
Attach the "home-run" straight pipe to the rubber hangers, and then join it to the flex pipe flange with new hardware (I chose to use 4 stainless washers, two stainless bolts, and two stainless nuts to re-assemble the new system to the flex pipe flange). While assembling, line up the stock exhaust gasket between the two flanges. Hand tighten the fasteners, we don't need to crank them down yet.
Attach the aftermarket muffler to the "home run" pipe. Don't worry about the U-Bolts yet. Once attached, hang the new muffler from the rubber hanger(s) that it is set up to attach to.
Attach the aftermarket tailpipe to the tubing coming from the muffler. Also attach any of the rubber hangers that it's meant to hook up to.
Install the U-bolts over the two joints where you slid the exhaust together, but don't tighten them.
Tighten the Flange bolts you installed.
Make sure the tailpipe and exhaust system are fitted the way you want. You can slide exhaust pieces around a bit to make the tailpipe longer or shorter according to preference. Once you have the fitment you want, tighten the U-bolts.
You should be all set! Lower the car, and fire her up!
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
FocusSport Passenger Side Engine Mount
45 Minutes
Tools Needed:
Procedure:
Note: Replacing engine mounts more directly connects the powertrain to the car's frame. This can lead to a "shaking" sensation at idle, which might take some getting used to.
1) Remove the coolant tank. There's one 10mm bolt holding it to the car, then you must use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the plastic tab back while pulling it off the mounting bracket.
2) Once the coolant tank is removed, you must carefully support the engine with a floor jack. It's best to use one with a wide contact patch and a rubber insert, but a normal floor jack with a piece of wood between the cup and the oil pan will suffice.
3) After you're sure the engine is supported, remove the 2 large nuts on the passenger side engine mount, closest to the valve cover. These nuts are 19mm and require a deep socket.
4) Remove the three 15mm nuts from the engine mount bracket. After this, the mounting bracket and the rubber engine mount should come out easily. If not, carefully lift or lower the engine a little while having a friend wiggle the engine mount. Watch the fingers!
5) With a deep-socket 19mm on a breaker bar, remove the engine mount from the bracket. When I did this, it was a pain. It wouldn't hurt to have a bench vise to help you do this, or a friend to stand on the bracket while you remove the nut from the engine mount.
6) Place the new VF engine mount onto the bracket with the supplied 19mm nut and bolt. You should use a drop of thread lock on the new bolt before final assembly. Use a 19mm socket and a 19mm wrench to tighten it, making sure that the engine mount is oriented the same way as the original one.
7) Place the engine mount over the studs
8) Replace the three 15mm nuts and tighten them down to hold the bracket in.
9) Replace the 2 19mm nuts and tighten them down with a deep socket
10) Lower the floor jack from the engine slowly, checking to make sure the mount holds securely.
13)Replace the coolant tank
FocusSport Driver's Side Engine Mount
45 Minutes
Tools Needed:
Procedure:
Note: Replacing engine mounts more directly connects the powertrain to the car's frame. This can lead to a "shaking" sensation at idle, which might take some getting used to.
1) Remove the airbox. The top part is held on with a hose clamp, the MAFS wires, and 4 bolts that can be removed with a flathead screwdriver. The bottom of the airbox can then be removed with sockets.
2) Once the airbox is removed, you must carefully support the transmission with a floor jack. It's best to use one with a wide contact patch and a rubber insert, but a normal floor jack with a piece of wood between the cup and the transmission will suffice.
3) After you're sure the transmission is supported, remove the large center nut on the engine mount. We found that 13/16" works best, but there may be a metric equivalent that I didn't have in my tool kit.
4) Remove the four 15mm nuts from the driver's side mount. After this, the mounting plate and the rubber engine mount should come out easily.
5) Take apart the pieces of the new VF mount, leaving the bottom urethane piece in.
6) Place the new VF mounting plate onto the studs that the original mounting plate came off of. If needed, rock the engine carefully so that the center stud fits into the void in the new mount.
7) Replace the four 15mm nuts and tighten them down
8) Place the upper urethane piece into the mount
9) Thread the upper metal piece onto the center stud. Do not cross thread it!
10) Squeeze a small amount of thread lock into the top metal piece
11) Using a 1-1/16" or 27mm socket, tighten the top metal piece very securely.
12) Lower the floor jack from the transmission slowly, checking to make sure the mount holds securely.
13)Replace the airbox
Porting the stock Throttle Body
Unknown
Tools Needed:
Procedure:
Additional Materials
- Pattex Magic Bar, or equivalent epoxy
- Aluminum Foil
- Disconnect battery
- Remove the intake from the throttle body. Release the hose clamps on the end of the intake pipe near the engine using the flathead screwdriver. Pull intake pipe up, away from throttle body.
- Remove the 4 screws holding the throttle body on with the #30 Torx driver. Be careful not to damage the screws or where thye go into the plastic intake manifold.
- Disconnect throttle cable and throttle position sensor (TPS). The TPS is on the drivers side of the throttle body. The TPS just snaps off with the push of a release tab. For throttle cable, pull away small metallic clips around the cable ring. Pull the ring out. Use the #25 Torx to remove the cable holder from the throttle body.
- Use aluminum foil to cover openeing in to intake manifold and the bottom of the throttle body. THis prevents debris from getting in there to ruin your engine!
Note:Do not touch inside the manifold or throttle body. There is a lubricant on them that is necesary. Do not try to clean this off. - OPTIONAL
Remoce the fins from the inside of the throttle body with a grinding wheel on the dremel tool. GO SLOW. Stop often to allow the plastic to cool so it doesn't melt. Use the compressed air or vacuum to remove the plastic dust.
Making the throttle body a circle
When looking at the throttle body you will see that the entrance for the air is not a perfect circle. The outside of the throttle body dips in toward the rear of the car where the obstruction is. To prevent creating a hole you will need to shape the throttle body with the epxoy.
Fill the backside of the throttle body with the epoxy. Allow the epoxy to set.
Slowly using the dremel grind away at the bump to make it a circle. Do not grind the opening larger than the butterfly in the throttle body. You will get through the plastic of the throttle body and into the epoxy that you applied. Be sure to blow or suck out the dust often.
Do not alter the rectangular opening on the opposite side.
Try to get the curve as smooth as possible. Do a final polish with a fine sandpaper. Clean the upper, uncoated, side of the throttle body.
Putting it back on
Bolt the throttle cable holder back on to the throttle body. Bolt the throttle cable back on.
Put on the metal clips and the TPS sensor.
Gently crew the throttle body back on. This is metal going into delicate plastic.
Reconnect the battery. Reconnect the intake pipe. Start the car and listen for any whistling sounds or other unusual sounds. If so you may have a leak.
If you think you have a leak recheck throttle body mounting. Check for holes in the throttle. Check for a solid connection of the intake pipe to the throttle body.
SVT Snorkel Install
1 - 1.5 hours
Tools Needed:
· Philips screwdriver
· Heat gun or hair dryer
· Gardener's bulb planter (optional)
Procedure:
Materials Needed:· SVT Snorkel (part # 2M5Z-9A624-AA)
· 2.5" hose clamp (optional)
· Rubber vacuum cap (optional)
1. Unplug MAF sensor and loosen hose clamp on MAF.
2. Using flat blade screwdriver, unbolt top of airbox and remove. Remove filter.
3. Using phillips screwdriver unscrew snorkel inlet from radiator support and remove "screw" clips.
4. Pull bottom of airbox out of engine bay. Disconnect old snorkel from airbox.
Note: the old snorkel fits inside the airbox opening. Keep in mind that the SVT snorkel will fit around the outside of the sleeve on the bottom of the airbox housing opening.
5. Grind off the four reinforcing tabs on the airbox opening sleeve until flush with sleeve. I used a flat file, but a dremel would be handy for this.
6. Slowly heat the airbox end of the snorkel and coax it into a round shape.
Note: Step #4 is the most difficult step of the process. The SVT snorkel is triangular on the airbox end, and it needs to be round. Once it is round, it will fit tightly and perfectly around the airbox sleeve. I used a gardener's bulb planter tool to do this, because it is round and tapers gradually. As you heat the end of the snorkel, twisting and forcing the bulb planter into the end of the snorkel will coax it into a round cross-section.
One problem I encountered was with the plastic piece to be heated. It is actually two halves snapped together and as you force the end of the heated snorkel into round, these two sections want to separate. To counteract this separation, I used a hose clamp to hold two halves together.
7. Once the snorkel is round and still warm, fit the snorkel over the sleeve on the bottom of the airbox. It should fit completely over the sleeve. Allow to cool.
Note: You may use a hose clamp to fit the snorkel to the airbox, but mine fit so tightly it wasn't needed. I did, however, leave on the hose clamp holding the two plastic halves of the snorkel together.
8. Re-install snorkel and airbox in car, and enjoy.
Note: Small angle adjustments may be needed on the snorkel when installing into the engine bay. At the angle I used, the small "V" looking tab on the snorkel did not align with the grommeted hole it is supposed to fit into. I cut off the "V" shaped tab. Also, the snorkel may rest on an exposed stud protruding from the transmission mount. I solved this problem by threading a rubber vacuum cap onto the stud to prevent the stud from wearing a hole through the snorkel.
I've been checking mine periodically over the last 1000-2000 miles, and it is still strongly attached.
Replacing front control arm
45 - 60 minutes
Tools Needed:
Procedure:
Hopefully you'll never, EVER have to do this. Also note that After I did this to my car, there are still some things wrong with the suspension that I have to get fixed. If you're ever involved in a situation where you have to replace suspension parts, remember, there's a lot of things you might not notice wrong and at the very least you should have the alignment looked at. Enough disclaimer banter, let's get started!Removal
1) Set the parking brake, loosen the front wheel, and lift the side of the car that you'll be working on. Support it with a jackstand.
2) Remove the front wheel
3) Using Blaster or other WD-40ish stuff, saturate the bolts holding the control arm in. There's 4 main bolts you should get. One in front, two in back, and one Torx bolt at the spindle. Let it sit for a few minutes. You'll thank me for this part later. :)
4) Using a Torx T-50 and a 15mm Socket, remove the bolt holding the control arm to the wheel spindle. Drive it out with a hammer if needed. Leave the control arm attached to the spindle for now.
5) Using Slip notch pliers, firmly grasp the nut located on the inside of the front control arm mount, and get on the other end of the bolt with the socket wrench. It's on there good.
6) Using sockets, remove the two bolts holding the back of the control arm in. It's easier to use 2 socket wrenches but not necessary.
7) Using a prybar, and optionally, a hammer, drive the control arm pin out from the spindle using downward force. Be careful not to damage the bushings.
8) Once the spindle is loose from the control arm, pry the front of the control arm from the bracket using a prybar. After this, the whole control arm assembly should come out very easily.
Installation
1) Place the rear of the control arm into place. Don't insert any bolts yet.
2) Wedge the front of the control arm into it's mounting bracket. Use a small screwdriver or the bolt you removed from the front of the control arm to assist you in lining it up properly. Use prybars to manipulate it's position. Once you can get it there, fully insert the front control arm bolt and place the nut on the end of it. Do not tighten.
3) Place the control arm pin into the wheel spindle. Use light taps from a hammer to get it all the way into the spindle. Place the torx bolt through the spindle and place the nut on the end of it. Do not tighten.
4) place the shorter of the two remaining bolts into the hole nearest you for the rear of the control arm. Place the nut on the end of it. Tighten slightly to assist with installation of last remaining control arm bolt.
5) Install remaining control arm bolt into the rear of the control arm. Place the nut on the end of it. Tighten it down.
6) Tighten the other bolt down which holds the rear of the control arm.
7) Tighten the bolt which retains the front of the control arm.
8) Tighten the bolt that goes through the spindle, using a TORX T-50 Bit and a socket.
9) Re-tighten all suspension bolts to make sure they're on good.
10) Replace the wheel, lower the car, tighten the lug nuts and you're rolling again!
Installing lowering springs
Several hours (but oh so worth it!)
Tools Needed:
Procedure:
Rear Coil Spring Replacement:1) Loosen the wheel lugnuts. Raise and support the left rear side of the car. Lower the jack.
2) Remove the wheel.
3) using the floor jack again, with a block of wood to protect the suspension parts, raise the lower arm to apply some pressure on the rear spring.
4) Remove the bolt Holding the rear swaybar to the arm. Remove the bushings as well.
5) Remove the lower control arm bolt and nut.
6) Slowly lower the floor jack to decompress the rear spring. Keep the Rubber foot that came out with the spring, you'll need to re-use this piece.
7) Place the rubber foot at the top of the rear aftermarket spring, noting the notch. It will only fit one way. Line it up.
8) Place the bottom of the spring in the lower control arm, and using the jack, raise it into position. Be sure to guide the rubber foot back to the correct location before applying tension to the spring.
9) Raise the control arm with the jack again. As soon as you have the lower control arm back in place, re-install the nut and bolt that hold it together.
10) Re install the bushings and the sway bar end link bolts.
11) Get the jack back out from under there and install the wheel.
12) Lower the car and torque the lug nuts down.
Repeat the same process for the rear right side of the car.1) Loosen the wheel lugnuts and raise the left rear front of the car and place a jack stand under it. Lower the jack.
2) Remove the wheel.
3) using the floor jack again, with a block of wood to protect the suspension parts, raise the lower arm to apply some pressure on the front spring.
4) Remove the bolt Holding the front swaybar to the strut. Remove the bushings as well.
5) Remove the brake line from the strut bracket. You may need to pry a retainer clip off in order to do this.
6) Remove the upper bolt holding the wheel spindle assembly to the strut.
7) Remove the bolt holding the tie rod end to the front spindle and move it aside.
8) Remove the front spindle bolt from the base of the strut.
9) Under the hood there are three bolts holding the strut in. Remove them.
10) Move the wheel hub and brake assembly aside and lower the strut and spring out from under the car.
Note: you may wish to just loosen the 3 nuts under the hood a little bit. You must push the steering knuckle and control arm down and remove the bottom of the strut from the suspension before you can get it all the way out of the strut tower, so you can wait to get the 3 nuts all the way off until you have the strut free from the rest of the suspension system.Be very very very careful when compressing a spring or dealing with (or near) a compressed spring. This thing holds up more than 1/4 of your car's total weight. If it were to break free from the spring compressor, whatever it collides with will be smacked with the force of close to 600 pounds. Not fun. People die from things like this. We have zero liability here. (Read the Disclaimer on the front page) If you have doubts, take the strut to a professional shop to have them install the aftermarket springs on your struts.
11) Using spring compressor, apply enough tension that the spring does not touch the top spring retainer.
12) Very carefully, remove the bolt holding the spring retainer on. You will probably want impact tools but it can be done without them.
13) Lift the compressed spring off the strut. Carefully release tension from the stock spring, point it away from all objects including yourself and other people. There's a good chance this thing's gonna go flyin!
14) using the spring compressor, compress the aftermarket spring.
15) Install it over the strut. (Right side up, please!)
16) Replace the spring retainer and bolt.
17) Carefully remove tension from the aftermarket spring and make sure it is properly seated.
18) Raise the strut assembly back into the car, and re-install and tighten the 3 nuts holding the strut assembly in.
19) place the wheel back into position and bolt everything back together.
20) Replace the brake line into the holding bracket. Replace any clips if you had to remove them.
21) Replace the wheel
22) Lower the car and tighten the lug nuts.
Repeat Instructions for right front spring installation.
SPI - Throttle Body Swap usng Modified Mustang TB
Unknown
Tools Needed:
Procedure:
Props: Gigaherz on the Focaljet Forums for pioneering this hack and writing up the instructions! Note:
You must use a Zetec intake tube or an aftermarket Zetec intake for this to work.
1) Remove the stock intake tube from the throttle body and the MAF sensor housing.
2) Disconnect the accelerator and cruise control (if applicable) cables from the throttle body. Then, using a flat blade screwdriver, remove the accelerator and cruise cables from the SPI throttle bracket.
3) Disconnect the TPS sensor plug from the throttle, using an 8mm socket and extension, remove the four bolts that hold the SPI throttle on and remove it from the manifold. Remove the bracket from the throttle and put it to the side.
4) Put a rag or towel in the top of the intake manifold opening. Then scrape or file off any gasket material that might be sticking to the surface of the manifold. Vacuum out any debris in the intake and pull out the rag. 
5) Take the adapter plate apart by taking out the four black cap screw with the 7/32nds Allen wrench. Now using the four bolts you removed in step two, put the bottom half of the adapter plate and it's gasket on the manifold. 
6) Place the gasket and top half of the adapter on the bottom half and tighten the Allen head bolts. Place the throttle body gasket on top of the installed adapter.
7) Smear a small amount of silicon on the outside top edge of the brass tube that is pressed into the adapter. Be careful not to get any inside the tube. Place the throttle body on the adapter. Slide the dipstick tube bracket up the tube till it can be bolted to the throttle body. Put it in place and carefully start hand tightening the four bolts supplied with the kit. The bolts should be spinning fairly easily, if not you may be stripping the threads by not putting the bolts in straight. Once you've got them in a little by hand then proceed to tighten them with a 7/16 socket and ratchet with and extension. Do no over tighten!
8) You must bend or hammer the little tab on the stock SPI throttle bracket so that it is now flat. You have a choice at this point. You can put the bracket on with one bolt or two. Both methods will work just fine but for safety reasons I recommend the two bolt approach.
9) To put the bracket on with one bolt, use one the 1/4 bolts and nuts supplied and just bolt the bracket to the top hole in the black fuel pressure regulator bracket on the Passenger side of the engine. Make sure to use loctite. Just rotate the bracket upwards till the hole in the plate for the throttle cable is in line with the throttle linkage. Then tighten the bolt. Some slight bending or slight moving of the oil dipstick tube will most likely be necessary. You can also use a zip-tie to secure the oil dipstick tube to the throttle cable/bracket. It makes everything a bit more sturdy.
To put the bracket on with two bolts, you must drill two 1/4 in holes in the fuel pressure regulator bracket. To do this, you must keep the bracket horizontal and position it till the throttle cable cut-out in the plate is centered with the throttle linkage. Then using the existing hole in the plate, draw or scribe a circle onto the fuel pressure regulator bracket. Drill out the hole with a 1/4 in drill bit. Bolt the two brackets together with one bolt. Line everything up good and while it's still bolted together, drill another hole somewhere else through both the brackets at once and bolt the second bolt in.
10) Now put the throttle and cruise cables back in the linkage plate and connect them to the throttle body. With a pair of pliers, bend the bracket forward and down until you feel that the angle of the throttle and cruise cables are more inline with the linkage. 
11) There is a fuel line in the way of the linkage. Just zip tie it to the fuel line closest to it so the fuel lines are out of the way. You may have to move a small vacuum line out of the way as well.
12) Now all that is left is to cut the three TPS wires and extend them enough so that you can plug the harness into the throttle body. 6 crimp connectors will do the trick. Just crimp three pieces of wire to the three wires coming out of the plug. Connect the plug to the throttle body and get measurements of how long the extension wires should be and then crimp the extensions to the harness. Tape everything up with electrical tape and you're done.
13) Connect the intake tube to the throttle and air cleaner and plug the MAF back in. Start her up and enjoy!
Installing LPE Rear Shock Mount Shims
Less than 30 minutes
Tools Needed:
Procedure:
Start by pulling up the bottom of the back seat and pushing the back of the rear seats forward. Also remove the hatch cover that lifts up with the hatchback. This will give you access to remove the trim inside the hatch.
1) Remove the body-snap (plastic screw and anchor) from beneath the upper trim cover (where the seatbelt goes in) 
2) Remove the four (4) screws from the large plastic trim piece inside the hatch. 
3) pull the hatch trim free from the body. There are two metal clips holding it in, one is behind the interior trim panel, and requires a little bit of force and care.
4) Pull back the felt-like hatch lining, it should pull out from behind the interior trim with no problems, simply fold it back to gain access to the interior body of the car. You will probably see a pad of noise-reducing material stuck over the shock mount: 
5) Carefully peel the noise-reducing pad away. You can actually discard it if you want, but I replaced it when I was done.
6) Latch on to the shock retaining nut with a 13mm wrench, then place a set of vise-grips or an adjustable crescent wrench on the end of the shock spindle. 
7) Hold the spindle still while turning the shock retaining nut counter-clockwise. Remove nut.
8) Remove rubber shock mount assembly 
9) Pop out the metal disc inside the assembly by flexing the rubber part. Delrin Shim, rubber shock mount, and metal disc shown: 
10) Place the delrin shim inside the rubber mount, making sure that the inner rubber part comes up through the hole in the middle of the shim properly. 
11) Replace metal disc over the shim. Make sure the domed part of the metal disc is facing outwards.
12) Place the re-assembled shock mount back onto the shock spindle.
13) Replace the retaining nut and re-tighten it.
14) Replace the noise-reducing material, if desired.
15) Re-position the felt-like hatch lining
14) Replace the Hatch trim and four screws. Tighten the screws.
14) Replace the upper trim cover, and replace the body snap.
Repeat on other side.
Installing Aftermarket Spark Plug Wires
Don't get me wrong, this isn't a hard-core power-adder, but after trading my Zetec's OEM Plug wires for a beefier set of wires from FocusSport, it really did smooth out my idle. It also gave me a mild boost in fuel economy. None of this was enough to write home about. Bang-for-the buck, there are other options that may be more "powerful" (Drop in replacement filter from K&N Comes to mind), but overall, this is an easy hack to perform on both Zetec and SPI engines alike. Tools Needed: Hands Time Required: 10 Minutes. Procedure: Pop the hood and prop it open. un-bundle your new spark-plug-wires. Starting with the longest plug wire, one by one, remove them from the top of your engine, leaving them attached on the coil pack. Remove the longest spark plug wire from the coil pack Use Dielectric Grease (if it shipped with your wires) on the insides of both ends of the spark plug wire you're getting ready to install (it should be the same length as the one you disconnected give or take one inch or so. If you need to re-use the plastic retainer clips, move them from the old wire to the new wire as you place the new spark plug wire back on the coil pack. Do not hook the other end up to the engine yet. Do the same for the rest of the plug wires, from the longest one to the shortest. Remember to use the dielectric grease on all connections if you spark plug wires shipped with some. After the coil pack has all four new wires on it, install the four engine side connectors from the shortest plug wire to the longest. Make sure the connectors snap onto the spark plug firmly. Drop the hood and fire the engine up! You just installed new plug wires!
Adjustable Cam Gears
Submitted by Pimp27 (From the FocalJet Forums) with technical editing from Ax0n and Noresull (FocalJet) From the beginning. Jack up the left front side of the car. Take off the wheel. Then take off the cover that goes over the under drive pulley. Let that be for a while and then take off the valve cover, and the cover that goes over the cam gears (I think it is only held on by two bolts, but I may be wrong). You can do this without removing the motor mount, but you just have to pull on it a lot. Once all three of those covers are off, remove all of the spark plugs (this makes it really easy to crank the motor over.) I only know how to do this if you have the aftermarket UDP on. There is a little mark on pulley itself. Use an 18mm socket and turn the motor over until the mark is facing straight down. Then stick a long screw driver in the first cylinder, and you can tell if the piston is all the way up. If it is all the way down, then crank the motor over one more time, until the mark is straight down again. Then the piston should be at the top. Now this is probably the hardest part of the install. You should have your cam alignment tool (a simple little bar of metal). Another way to tell if you have the #1 piston at the top is if the slots in the end of the cams are horizontal. (these are on the end of the cam on the right side.) Now you need to slide the tool into the end of both cams. Someone needs to turn the UDP back and fourth until you get one side in. then you will probably have to turn the UDP back to get the other side in the slot also. You may have to use a small hammer to tap in into the slots. Once the cam tool is in the slots, everything is aligned. the cams at the top are aligned and the crank is aligned at the bottom (mark pointing down). Which needs to be when you mess with the timing. Now for the tensioner part. (of yeah, you will need to remove the coolant and radiator reservoirs) This is held on by a 10mm bolt. When you look at the cam gears, it is the pulley just below them on the left. Now use the 10m socket and loosen the tensioner. The Ford service manual says: 1. Unscrew the bolt four turns. 2. Position the tensioner so the locating tab is at approximately the 4 o'clock position. 3. Line up the hex key slot in the tensioner adjusting washer with the pointer that is located behind the pulley. Now you should be able to take off the belt (it should be loose). once the belt is off just let it hang. Take off the old cam gears, with a t-55 torx. Hold the camshafts with a set of vise-grips, as relying on the cam alignment tool can damage both the tool and the camshaft. Go easy on this so as not to strip to bolt, because it is really easy, I know! Now that the old ones are off, you can put the new ones one. Make sure they are at 0 degrees before you put them on, I am not sure if it matters, but it is better to be safe than sorry. It also doesn't matter in what position you put them on, but I would suggest putting them on, so that the marks are both facing the same direction. (Now, the cam tool is still in the slot the whole time!) Once they are on pretty tight, put the belt on. It should only be able to go on in one spot. Then once the belt is on, you need to tighten the tensioner. 1. Rotate the tensioner locating tab counterclockwise and insert the locating tab into the slot in the rear timing cover. 2. Position the hex key slot in the tensioner adjusting washer to the 4 o'clock position. 3. Tighten the attaching bolt enough to seat the tensioner firmly against the rear timing cover, but still allow the tensioner adjusting washer to be rotated using a 6mm hex key. This will insure that the belt is tight. Now, once everything is back on, take out the cam tool, you may need to tap it out with a hammer. I would just crank the motor over a couple of times by hand, to make sure everything is turning ok. Then put the valve cover back on. You can leave the cam gear cover off. As to my knowledge, it doesn't hurt anything. Now put the spark plugs back in and connect the plug wires. Then put the cover back on that is under the car. Put the wheel back on are you are all set.
Installing a Performance Chip
Time Required:
Less than 30 minutes
Procedure:
1) Disconnect the negative battery Terminal.
2) Refer to Removing the glove compartment to gain access to the Computer.
3) Release the clamp that holds the computer in place.
4) Use a 10mm socket to un-fasten the wiring harness from the computer module and unplug the computer from the harness
5) Take the plastic cover off the computer module which is now loose from the car.
6) Take the small bolts out of the PCM, that hold the two halves together. I used needle-nose pliers to get them loose, then removed them with my fingers.
7) Use scotch brite pad to polish the protective coating off of the connector port for the performance chip or test equipment.
8) Clean the connector first with a rubber eraser (pink pet) and then with rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab, until contacts are very shiny.
9) Reassemble the PCM and replace the small bolts that hold it together.
10) Insert the performance chip onto the connector
11) Replace the Computer Cover, Plug it back in, fasten the wiring harness bolt, and replace the clamp that holds the computer in place.
12) Put the glove-box back where it belongs
13) Reconnect the negative battery Terminal
14) Start the car! It might take a few minutes of driving to re-calibrate all the stored values lost during the battery disconnection.
Underdrive Pulley Installation
I used a 3/4" socket (I think) on a breaker bar. I took the spark plug wires off and had a friend crank the engine. The breaker bar went up against the suspension and then the bolt came right out. You don't need an impact wrench. Putting it back on tight isn't as easy. I'd recommend some blue thread lock compound on the threads because no way you'll get it torqued back to 85 foot pounds. I ran my UDP HARD at the autocross and it didn't come loose.
To loosen the tensioner, remove the belt shield (two 10mm bolts). Then push upwards with your hand on the tensioner or get on the 15mm bolt in the center of the tensioner and try to "tighten" it while under the car. While the tensioner is retracted, pull the belt off from the A/C or water pump pulley, then then remove the belt by hand. When replacing it, loop it around all the pulleys except the A/C pulley. Again, retract the tensioner, and then loop the belt over the A/C pulley.
a few things to note:1) Before starting, support the car with a jackstand.
2)Remove the passenger side wheel.
3) Using a 10MM socket, take out the one bolt holding your coolant resevoir. Unhook it from it's mounting spot and move it out of the way.
4) break the power steering fluid container free from it's mounting bracket and slide it up and out of it's holders and move it out of the way. This will help you get to the tensioner pulley from the topside.
5) snap off the plastic walls of the little insert behind the underdrive pulley where the belt will go. otherwise it will rub on this piece, make lots o' noise, and ruin your accessory belt. If you want to take it off the engine to work with it better, it's held on with two 3/8" bolts. I think that's equivalent to 8mm. But I'm not sure.
Here is a Belt Diagram:
