Shortening the stock Antenna

Shorty antennas are all the rage. With a small sacrifice to radio reception, you can shorten your antenna on the cheap without the hassle or price of a custom aftermarket antenna.

Time Required:
10 minutes

Tools Needed:

Safety glasses

Wire cutters or a rotary tool (sugh as a dremel) with cutoff wheel

Cyanoacrylate (Super Glue)

Vise Grip Pliers

Slip notch or blunt-nose pliers

Butane Lighter (Optional)

Procedure:

Aftermarket solid antennae have a nasty habit of breaking the threads off the antenna base when pressure is applied to them (for instance, you strike the antenna while clearing snow off the car or washing it). The flexible base of the stock antenna minimizes this risk, and this is truly a hack: One of the cheapest things you can do as far as exterior styling is concerned.

Remove the antenna by grasping it just above the antenna base and turning it counter clockwise.

Firlmly but carefully, grip the rubber cap at the end of the antenna (opposite the threaded end) with vise grip pliers.

Grip the fiberglass shaft just next to the rubber cap with another set of pliers, and begin to twist the rubber cap to remove it from the antenna shaft. If you scuff up the antenna shaft near the end, it's okay because we'll be cutting the end off when we shorten the shaft.

If needed, apply a little hear to the rubber cap with the butane lighter to soften it up. Don't melt or ignite the rubber cap, or burn the fiberglass shaft of the antenna. It doesn't take much heat, if any.

Once the rubber cap is removed, Figure out how short you want your antenna to be. I chose about half the length of stock. Remember, the shorter you go, the less radio reception you'll get. Those who listen mostly to CD's or live near large cities (close to the radio towers) are not affected as much.

Once you have chosen a new length for your antenna, toss on the safety glasses and use a set of heavy duty wire cutters (lineman's sidecutters work well) or use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut the antenna. Either way you decide to cut it, shards or particles of fiberglass may get in your eyes, so be careful and please wear eye protection.

Put a small dab of cyanoacrylate glue on the cut end of the antenna, and promptly place the rubber cap firmly onto the shortened antenna shaft.

Re-install the antenna by screwing it clockwise onto the antenna base.

Finished product:

Do-It-Yourself SVT-Style Headlights

MMI-ZX3 (From Focaljet) Explains Step-By-Step how to take apart your headlights and give them a new look! He uses black, but you could essentially paint the inside any color (for instance, to match your car's paint color)

Time Required:
Varies but allow yourself one full day

Tools Needed:

10mm socket

Phillips screwdriver

Dull flathead screwdriver

#10 Torx screwdriver

Heat gun or hairdryer

Paint and primer of your choice

Caulk gun

Automotive grade clear or black silicone in caulk tube Putty knife

Razor blade or knife

Light grit sandpaper

10-15 woodworking clamps of different sizes

large vise grips

Procedure:

1. Remove two screw clips holding air intake snorkle and radiator support cover
2. Remove remaining two screw clips holding on radiator support cover
3. Remove 4 grill screws usning 10mm socket
4. Remove grill by gently pulling up and back on the top center where it clips
5. Unhook turn signal harnesses and set grill assembly aside.
6. Remove headlight screws using 10mm socket. There are two on the top, one near where the grill screw is (which is a screw/clip) and one under the headlight. You will need to crawl under the car to reach the bottom one. The screw/clip can be removed by unscrewing it and then gently pulling it up.
7. Pull the headlight forward and unhook harness.
8. Repeat steps 6 and 7 for other headlight.
9. Take headlight assemblies to a place where you have plenty of room to work.
10. Remove both bulbs and set them in a safe place.
11. Using the heat gun or hairdryer heat up the black sealant holding the two halves of the h/l assembly together. As you are heating it up use the dull flathead screwdriver to work the pieces apart. Make sure if you are using a high temp heat gun to avoid long exposure to the same areas of plastic. Move it from side to side in a small area. This will be a very long and time consuming project. The best place I have found to start is the inside point on the h/l. As you are working the halves apart make sure to pry the four clips off by working the screwdriver under them and prying them up and back while holding heat to them. When you have finally have the halves apart, lay them out and use a putty knife and razor blade or knife to remove as much of the factory sealant as possible.
12. After you have as much sealant removed as possible remove the inside chrome trim on the lense half using the #10 Torx screwdriver. You will need to pry them a little off of the two set pins as well. Do not remove the chrome piece surrounding the bulbs in the back half.
13. Lightly sand both chrome pieces. Make sure to get into all groves, cracks and crevices. Clean thoroughly after sanding.
14. Now prime and let dry. I used Krylon white primer which dries in 30 minutes. I used three coats of primer to make sure there was an even coating.
15. When primer is completly dry it is time to paint. To achieve the SVT look, I used gloss black but any color of your choice will suffice. It is up to you how you want them to look. Make sure when painting to get every area that will be exposed. I used several coats to get all of the different areas to make sure all was covered.
16. When paint is thoroughly dry carefully put painted pieces back inside the h/l housing. Make sure not to scratch the paint. ***Do the following steps one at a time for each h/l. It is best to do one at a time as you need to make sure it is done right and also to allow for error***
17. Using the auto grade caulk, put a nice bead all away around the back housing. There is a nice groove that you can fill it up with. Do not use sparingly. You want to make sure you have a good seal.
18. Let cure for time stated and then put two halves back together. Be very careful not to hit the chrome bulb trim on the newly painted piece. It will scratch it and you will have to repaint. I know from experience. Take your time and line up the two halves and then press together. Make sure to hook the four clips back over their respective tabs. Do this very gently as they will break.
19. Now take a pair of large vice grips and clamp the inner point of the h/l. Place several clamps around the whole assembly. It will take some trial and error getting them to stay and finding the right locations to position them. I used about 10-12 clamps per h/l. Make sure the they are holding the pieces snug. Let cure for stated time and then some. Never hurts to let it set a little longer.
20. After it is completly cured use a razor blade to trim any excess caulk that has been pressed out. After that is done run another bead around the outside where the two halves meet. Let it cure and then again trim excess. I did this just to ensure that there would be no moisture leaks or condensation inside the h/l.
21. Repeat steps 17-20 for second h/l.
22. Replace bulbs.
23. Reverse steps 1-7 and you are done for reassembly. Make sure to reconnect your h/l and turn signal harnesses.

Replacing front corner turn signal lenses

This will help you replace the front corner turn signals (not the ones in the upper grill)

Time Required:
Less than 15 minutes per turn signal

Tools Needed:

Socket set or adjustable crescent wrench

Procedure:

1) You may want to jack the front end of the car up with a floor jack on proper jacking points. It isn't required though.
2) Look up under the bumper where the turn signal sits. You may want to use a mirror if you can't get under the front end.
3) Twist the bulb holder Anti-Clockwise and remove it from the lens.
4) Using the wrench or socket, un-do the 2 "cheapo" sheetmetal nuts which hold the turn signal housing to the bumper.
5) Pull the turn signal housing out from the bumper.
Assemble in reverse order.

Spark Plug Wire Cover Installation

This is a Zetec-Only Under-hood aesthetic hack, but it really adds to the fit-and-finish appearance.

Tools Needed: Minimalistic Socket set. (9MM Socket I believe is all you need) Time Required: 10 Minutes Procedure: Pop The Hood and prop it open Remove the two small bolts in between the cam covers on the top of the engine. Place the spark plug cover in the groove between the cam covers. Line up the notches properly with the indentations for the bolts. Re-Install the bolts through the holes in the Spark Plug Wire Cover. Drop the hood!

Aftermarket Hood Installation

An aftermarket hood can offer superior weight reduction and/or cooler air temperatures in your engine compartment, as well as giving you that "custom" look if you want it. You can have one installed in minutes! Optional instructions: Hood Pins and Re-Installing OEM Wiper Nozzles.

 Mad Props: LuvMyFoci for having a Cervini Hood, and FocusZoomin, for  discussing with me about the details of how her hood got installed.  Tools Needed: Socket Set Torx Bits and Screwdriver Set Power Drill and Bits: Optional  Time Needed: Depends, but you can have it done in 15-30 Minutes if you don't want windshield Washer Nozzles.  Procedure: Prop your hood open.  Remove the hood Latch Loop from the underside front of the hood.  Detach the windshild wiper fluid line from the hood.  If replacing wiper fluid nozzles, Go to the steps at the bottom before continuing with the installation.  Un-Bolt the two bolts on each side of the hood holding it to the hinges.  Remove hood.    If installing hood pins, it's still a good idea to leave the stock latching mechanism intact, but it is not required.  It is a good safety measure to keep snoops from opening your hood and stealing your Cold Air Intake and plug wires.  :)  Attach hood latch loop to underside of aftermarket hood.  If needed, drill pilot holes.  Be careful to place this exactly in the right spot or else your hood will be dangerous (it could not latch properly and flip backwards while driving, blocking your view, and potentially  injuring you and damaging the car at the same time!).  If mis-aligned, it can also cause bowing and un-due stress on the hood and latch.  If needed, Drill Pilot holes in the new hood for the hinges.  Again, make sure the holes are in the correct location if you must drill them yourself.  Attach hood to hinges  Use the hood prop and/or a friend to help hold and line up the hood.  Re-attach the hinge bolts.   Carefully lower the hood and make a quick visual check that it will not hit anything in the engine compartment, and that the latch is properly engaged.  If installing hood pins, find a suitable mounting point on the frame of the car.  Drill pilot holes for mounting the pins, and install pins with supplied hardware.  Carefully lower the hood and mark where you need to drill holes for the hood-pin pass-through.   Carefully drill the holes, and place the anti-scuff protector washers on the hood surface.  (they're usually self-adhesive).  Lower the hood through the pins and latch hood in place.  Install  hood pin retainer clips.     * Steps for re-installing OEM Washer Nozzles:  Remove washer nozzles carefully from the Original hood, or acquire new washer nozzles (OEM or Aftermarket).  Option 1: On the hood (Original Placement) Carefully mark and drill new holes in the new hood for the nozzles.  Place the nozzles on the new hood  Attach mounting hardware to hold nozzles in place.  Re-attach washer fluid hoses.  Continue with hood mounting.   Option 2: Under the hood  Place nozzles under the hood at a location where they can spray the windshileld.  Mount with custom hardware or drill holes in the plastic vent dam in front of windshileld.  Attach Washer Fluid Hoses.  Continue with hood mounting.  

The Infamous Fog Light Mod

Allows the fog lights to turn on with only the park lamps

Cost: Almost free
Time Required:Less than 5 min.
What you'll need:
A few inch of 12ga (or thicker) wire
Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper Combo tool (cheap at parts store if you don't own one)
2 Spade Lug Crimp Terminals (cheap at parts store)
Fuse/relay puller or some prying tool

---

1. Open your hood and locate the fuse box (Drivers' side near windshield)

2. Open fuse box and locate R13 according to the map on the fuse box cover

3. Pry, pull, or otherwise remove Relay #R13 from it's socket. It is in there tight but it comes out!

4. Cut a length of wire about 2 inches long. Strip the ends and crimp a spade lug to each end.

5. Push the lugs in to connect the two parallel sockets (not the 3 parallel ones).

6. ALL DONE! This modification might cause you to fail inspection if they check to see that fog lights are only on with your low beams and at no other time. I keep the relay in my glove box just in case.

:)